West Restaurant. Experience went a bit ’south’.

West Restaurant. Experience went a bit ’south’.

We went out last night to West. After hearing people talk and talk about the restaurant (and knowing it is related to Araxi), we were looking forward to it. Unfortunately, it failed to meet our expectations and the flavor palate was way off either of our liking.
Let’s talk and what worked:

  • The decor is nice
  • The service was very good
  • Our table was right near the path so we could see the plates being put together
  • The technical construction (look, cooking, etc.) was very good.

West_int5

What didn’t work

  • the flavour

None of the plates were particularily memorable (aside from the tuna tartar). The rest felt overpriced after we received them. If I’m paying $20 for a starter, I want it to be good. $40 for a main, it should be excellent.

What we ate (and note that we ordered two starters and a main because we were assuming another Araxi experience):

JC:

AHI TUNA CARPACCIO, BARTLET PEARS, PUMPKIN SEED MAYONNAISE, GINGER SCENTED EGGPLANT CAVIAR $19  This really seemed to work well. I didn’t care for it, but JC thought it was exceptional.

TERRINE OF FOIE GRAS, DAVID WOODS GOATS CHEESE AND APPLE WITH QUINCE JELLY$ 24  Kind of boring. Goat cheese with foie gras is like chocolate syrup on caramel sauce. Too much and trying too hard.

QUEEN CHARLOTTE HALIBUT POACHED IN AROMATIC BOUILLON, FRESH HERB CRUMBS POTATO, MUSSEL AND CASTELLANO CHORIZO RISOTTO, YOUNG SPINACH SAUCE $38  There was fennel in the topping which was  too strong for the fish. The chorizo and halibut was nice on its own, but after scraping off too much herb crumbs, it was a bit of a disaster. Disappointing. Felt like they were trying too hard to produce haute cuisine.

CF:

SEARED QUALICUM BAY SCALLOPS, LENTILS WITH UNI BUTTER, PINEAU DE CHARENTES SYRUP $21.5 One scallop with a uni serving on top of it (nice and fresh, but not good with the scallop), the lentils with uni butter were okay but overpriced for one scallop.

COUNTRY PATE – RABBIT, PORK WRAPPED IN HOME MADE BACON. It was okay. Served with toasted brioche, but not soft enough to spread. Okay, but wouldn’t order again.

TENDERLOIN OF ORGANIC CANADIAN PRIME BEEF PEPPER BRAISED OXTAIL POTATO, CREAMED SPINACH, CHANTERELLES AND BLACK TROMPETTES $44.5  Nice, but not worth the money on any level.

In total, the bill came to $225 ($265 with tip) and I don’t think I would ever go back here. I understand that the chef that put West on the map has since moved on and I felt like the meals coming out of the kitchen were trying too hard. West doesn’t believe in doing simple things well. They believe in doing complicated things in an unconnected way. Reminded me of watching an epileptic in a fist fight. Lots going on, but little substance. West is not a restaurant that the Hanging Pig can feel good referring. We’d suggest that the restaurant consider refinement in their products and less is more. The kitchen is obviously competent and constructing good food and nice looking plates, but if the flavour isn’t there, the rest falls flat. We have a great lunch at YEW (in the Four Seasons). The meal was understated, memorable, and 1/5 the price of dinner at West. I give this restaurant 1 star and that is only for technical abilities and the level of table service.  I would have liked to have injected some wit into this post, but I’m too disappointed to be inspired.

About the Author

Chris Flett, co-founder of the Hanging Pig is author of "What Men Don't Tell Women About Business" (Wiley) and the founder of the Ghost CEO (www.GhostCEO.com).